Waves

Waves come in many kinds and sizes, it is best to think of them as a continuous spectrum extending from waves so small they can hardly be seen. somewhere in the midst of the spectrum are the waves we are all familiar of. Waves rang in size from the ripples in a pond to the great storm waves of the ocean and the tides, whose wavelength is half the distance around the earth. Waves are measured in a certain way, the crest is the high point of the wave. The trough is the low point of the wave. The wave height is the vertical distance from trough to crest. The wave length is the horizontal distance between adjacent crests. Wave period is the time in seconds for a wave crest to traverse a distance equal to one wavelength. Here are the groups of waves in order, ripples, 1-4 seconds, wind chop 1-4 seconds, fully developed seas, 5-12 seconds, swell, 6-16 seconds, surf beat, 1-3 minutes, tsunamis, 10-20 minutes, tides 12- 24 hours.

The earth is surrounded by two great oceans, an ocean of air and an ocean of water. Both are in constant motion, driven by the energy of the sun and the gravity of the earth. Their motions are linked the winds give energy to the sea surface and ocean currents are the result. The currents carry heat from one location to another, altering the earth's surface temperature patterns and modifying the air above. ocean waters are always in motion. Currents flow like rivers, waves crash against seashores and tides rise and fall.

Currents are created by the sun warming ocean layers in certain areas like the equator. The warmer water expands slightly, creating a slope, and the warm water runs downhill toward poles .ocean waves are created by the wind. Energy in the form of waves move across the ocean surface but the water itself moves in a circular motion beneath the surface. Tides are rhythmic ,predictable and are affected by the gravitational pull of the moon. Tidal range can vary dramatically depending on the shape of the water basin that the tides flow through.

Everything from earthquakes to ship wakes creates waves, however the most common cause is wind. As wind passes over the waters surface friction forces it to ripple. The strength of the wind the distance the wind blows and the length of the gust determine how big the ripples will become.

In deep waters only wavelength and wave period affect a waves speed as the wave approaches